Yes. You can switch from chlorine to bromine without draining your spa. (Consult your spa dealer.) You may also switch from bromine to chlorine, but the process is a little more intricate. (Again, please consult your spa dealer for details.)

Test strips are more than adequate for your backyard pool or spa. Commercial spas may require a greater need for accuracy, which is why DPD testing should be used.

No. Bromine cannot be stabilized.

The general formula is 1/3 * gallons divided by the number of bathers per day. (i.e.: 1/3 * 300 divided by 2 = 50 days). If persistent problems exist, drain the spa and start again.

A non-chlorine spa shock is buffered so as not to affect the pH or total alkalinity. The non-chlorine pool shock will lower the pH and alkalinity if used.

The pH Stable reacts to reduce calcium hardness. The calcium cloud will be filtered out, and the filter should be cleaned. Ideally, pH Stable should be used when calcium hardness is less than 150ppm.

Yes. An ozonator is an effective oxidizer, but there must be a chlorine residual of 1-2 ppm or a bromine residual of 3-5 ppm. An ozonator will make your chlorine/bromine last longer.

You will usually detect the fumes of the disinfectant when removing the cover. If the residual of the disinfectant is high, fumes will build up under the cover. If inhaled, the fumes could cause you to cough. X-it will reduce the disinfectant level.

It is up to the bathers’ preference. Stabilized chlorine has a stronger odor but is a very effective sanitizer, available in tablet or granular form. Bromine is less irritating to the skin, eyes, and nose. Bromine is also an effective sanitizer in a combined form.

A spa should be shocked after each use. If before entering the spa, no disinfectant is tested, shock to release the idle bromine or chlorine.